Onto the Trail

Inca Trail, Peru - Day 16

 

After an early alarm and a few mini croissants, Katie and I found ourselves rocking side to side on a private bus making way to Llama Path's porter facility. The first floor of the facility was living quarters and on the second floor was a gym. It was barracks style living, with multiple bunk beds lining the floor and a small common area with some couches and a TV. Our guide Rosalio said most porters are from the mountains and range in age from 18 to 50. The tour was followed by a two hour drive outside of Cusco. Soon we found ourselves double checking gear and hitting the trail. Alongside the hikers, all the porters were also packing their huge packs. In our crew, we had Rosalio (our guide), a chef, an assistant chef, a lead porter, and three personal porters. These guys would carry everything that we would use at camp. This includes all the food we would eat, all the equipment to cook that food, a dining tent, table, chairs, our tent, sleeping bags, sleeping mats, and first aid gear. Not only do they carry considerably more than we do, but they would leave after us (because they would tear down and pack up all the gear after we left), pass us on the trail, setup for lunch, serve us lunch, cleanup and tear down after lunch, pass us again on the trail, and setup our campsite and prepare dinner. It was beyond impressive!

With the Veronica glacier at our rear and the Urubamba river to our side, we started hiking down Cusichaca Valley. Today's trail would take us through a couple tiny villages (selling cold beverages and bathrooms) and passed several small ruins. At our lunch spot we enjoyed some much needed rest and were introduced to the delicious food we would enjoy for the rest of the hike. The major ruin we saw today was Wayllabamba. Sitting far above the city, we listened to Rosalio describe what archaeologists thought the city was for and our first introduction to Inca culture and lore. The Inca believed in three 'worlds', Hana Pacha - the sky or upper world where gods (the sun and moon for example) lived, Kay Pacha - the Earth where humans lived, and Uqha Pacha - the underworld (not to be confused with hell) where people go when they die. These three levels were linked to holy animals, the Condor representing the sky, the Puma the Earth, and the Snake the underworld (because snakes can slither underground). All three of these animals were represented by the Inca with constellations in the sky. On the terrace side of Wayllabamba, the shape of a snake can be seen. Because the Inca linked medical care/death with the snake, and because several skeletons were found nearby with skulls showing signs of medical procedures, it is thought Wayllabamba had a medical purpose. A hospital of sorts or possibly a medical school.

Before we knew it we were at our first campsite falling asleep, but not before the most delicious three course dinner I've ever had on the trail.

Inca Trail Day One Itinerary:

  • 3:30 AM - Hotel Pickup

  • 4:00 AM - Porter House Tour

  • 6:30 AM - Breakfast outside Ollantaytambo

  • 8:00 AM - KM 82, Start of the Trail

  • 1:00 PM - Lunch

  • 5:30 PM - Reach Campsite

  • 6:00 PM - Dinner

Hike Info:

  • 10 Miles

  • 7 Hours

  • 3600 Feet Elevation Change (Up and Down)

  • Major Ruins Seen:

    • Wayllabamba

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Dead Woman's Pass

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Exploring Cusco